Ghost
January fancy dress, 1877 France, Journal des Demoiselles et Petit Courrier des Dames Réunis

January fancy dress, 1877 France, Journal des Demoiselles et Petit Courrier des Dames Réunis

Spanish fancy dress for September, 1819 UK, La Belle Assemblée

Spanish fancy dress for September, 1819 UK, La Belle Assemblée

Miss J G Hinkel, unknown date (possibly ca 1915-16?)

Miss J G Hinkel, unknown date (possibly ca 1915-16?)

"Beautiful Woman", ca 1905
Group with Miss Helen Taft, unknown date (she was First Lady from 1909 to 1913)

Group with Miss Helen Taft, unknown date (she was First Lady from 1909 to 1913)

(Left) Dress, mid-late 1900’s
(Right) What I’m assuming is fancy dress, Victorian or Edwardian
The lot contains several other damaged Victorian and Edwardian pieces, reflected in the starting price.

(Left) Dress, mid-late 1900’s

(Right) What I’m assuming is fancy dress, Victorian or Edwardian

The lot contains several other damaged Victorian and Edwardian pieces, reflected in the starting price.

Girl’s 18th century-style fancy dress, 1880’s (the striped silk is from the 1770’s)
Click to go to the absentee bidding page.  This Kerry Taylor auction will end October 16th at 10:30 AM GMT (5:30 AM EST).  You will need to register to bid ahead of time.

Girl’s 18th century-style fancy dress, 1880’s (the striped silk is from the 1770’s)

Click to go to the absentee bidding page.  This Kerry Taylor auction will end October 16th at 10:30 AM GMT (5:30 AM EST).  You will need to register to bid ahead of time.

"Mary, Queen of Scots" and "Lord Darnley" fancy dress by Russell & Allen of Old Bond Street, ca 1900 London
Click to go to the absentee bidding page.  This Kerry Taylor auction will end October 16th at 10:30 AM GMT (5:30 AM EST).  You will need to register to bid ahead of time.

"Mary, Queen of Scots" and "Lord Darnley" fancy dress by Russell & Allen of Old Bond Street, ca 1900 London

Click to go to the absentee bidding page.  This Kerry Taylor auction will end October 16th at 10:30 AM GMT (5:30 AM EST).  You will need to register to bid ahead of time.

Fancy dress, Jan 1846 US (Philadelphia), Ladies’ National Magazine

Fancy dress, Jan 1846 US (Philadelphia), Ladies’ National Magazine

A “Fashion Gossip” column describing cutting edge Philadelphia fashions, Winter 1885-86 US (Philadelphia), Strawbridge and Clothier’s Quarterly
The wedding dress described on this page is here.
Continued from here:

[The] handsome wedding-costume shown in the full-page illustration has a robe front of pleatings of old Mechlin lace.  Over this front petticoat comes the full court-train of cream-white satin de Lyon, draped full and high on each hip, and falling in deep, heavy pleats in the back.  A pleating of lace is placed around the bottom of the waist, and a plastron of the same, ornaments the front.  Over the whole costume falls the veil of sheer Brussels net.  The veil is gathered on the crown of the head with a small cluster of orange blossoms.  The bridal bouquet is composed of nephetos-buds, intermingled with sprays of orange-blossoms, and adds to the general effect.
A popular floral decoration for weddings is a Japanese umbrella, made of white flowers, under which the bride and groom stand while receiving congratulations.  A wish-bone is another novel fancy; this is usually suspended in the doorway between two parlors.
A neat style of making a plush or velvet jacket is shown at Figure No. 3.  It is a model that will be found particularly becoming to slender figures.  The material is seal-brown plush; and is cut double-pointed in front, and is embroidered, vest-fashion, in shaded gold braid.  From the side-seams, simulating an outer short jacket, come two side revers.  The sleeves are fulled high on the shoulders, and are finished with an embroidered cuff.
Braids are very much used for trimmings, and there are several beautiful new varieties.  The Titan, is a mohair braid of neat design; and the Giant is a heavy braid that has the effect of pleating.  Threads of tinsel and bright colors are run lavishly through many of the more dressy braids.  Wool laces are very high in popularity, and they are very rich and durable trimmings.  The Angora wool-laces, trim some of the richest street costumes.  The net or piece Angora lace is used frequently as the entire front drapery.  It comes in all the desirable shades of drab, brown, gray, wine and blue.  In some of the new laces the designs are carried out in velvet and chenille, and from beneath the petals of the flowers hang pendants of cut beads.  A very effective order of lace has small rhinestones worked into the pattern, together with gold floss.
The pretty little Normandie cap and peasants’ waist, shown at Figure No. 4, are appropriate for a young girl’s fancy costume.  The waist is made of pale-blue cashmere; is trimmed with bias bands of cardinal velvet: and opens over a chemisette of fine white organdie, gathered full at the throat.  There are organdie puffs on each shoulder, slashed with cardinal velvet.  The coquettish cap is made also of blue cashmere, worked in sprays of shaded brown and cardinal leaves.  There is a tinsel border.
Contrary to rule, the street dresses for children this winter are winning the approbation of the philosopher; who, with astonishing amiability, heralds the return of a fashion that puts children into clothes that are at once comfortable and healthy.  True it is, the newest costumes for children are very happy combinations of the picturesque and the practical.  The Gretchen and the various Greenaway cuts are the styles most in favor.
To the left in the illustration given at Figure No. 5, is shown the Nitouche mantle; a very graceful street-wrap.  The deep front panels are formed of a jetted fabric very closely woven.  The remainder of…(continued in the next post)

"Greenaway cuts" refers to styles inspired by the children’s book illustrations of Kate Greenaway, whose storybook kids wore clothing inspired by the 1790’s and 1800’s.  Parents were drawn to these nostalgic images of a supposedly more innocent time, and dressed their kids in imitation with mob caps, high waisted pinafores and straw bonnets for girls and skeleton suits and smock-frocks for boys.  Being the arts and crafts-inspired company that it was at the time, Liberty of London’s line of children’s clothing featured "Greenaway cuts".
I’m not sure what “the Gretchen” refers to.

A “Fashion Gossip” column describing cutting edge Philadelphia fashions, Winter 1885-86 US (Philadelphia), Strawbridge and Clothier’s Quarterly

The wedding dress described on this page is here.

Continued from here:

[The] handsome wedding-costume shown in the full-page illustration has a robe front of pleatings of old Mechlin lace.  Over this front petticoat comes the full court-train of cream-white satin de Lyon, draped full and high on each hip, and falling in deep, heavy pleats in the back.  A pleating of lace is placed around the bottom of the waist, and a plastron of the same, ornaments the front.  Over the whole costume falls the veil of sheer Brussels net.  The veil is gathered on the crown of the head with a small cluster of orange blossoms.  The bridal bouquet is composed of nephetos-buds, intermingled with sprays of orange-blossoms, and adds to the general effect.

A popular floral decoration for weddings is a Japanese umbrella, made of white flowers, under which the bride and groom stand while receiving congratulations.  A wish-bone is another novel fancy; this is usually suspended in the doorway between two parlors.

A neat style of making a plush or velvet jacket is shown at Figure No. 3.  It is a model that will be found particularly becoming to slender figures.  The material is seal-brown plush; and is cut double-pointed in front, and is embroidered, vest-fashion, in shaded gold braid.  From the side-seams, simulating an outer short jacket, come two side revers.  The sleeves are fulled high on the shoulders, and are finished with an embroidered cuff.

Braids are very much used for trimmings, and there are several beautiful new varieties.  The Titan, is a mohair braid of neat design; and the Giant is a heavy braid that has the effect of pleating.  Threads of tinsel and bright colors are run lavishly through many of the more dressy braids.  Wool laces are very high in popularity, and they are very rich and durable trimmings.  The Angora wool-laces, trim some of the richest street costumes.  The net or piece Angora lace is used frequently as the entire front drapery.  It comes in all the desirable shades of drab, brown, gray, wine and blue.  In some of the new laces the designs are carried out in velvet and chenille, and from beneath the petals of the flowers hang pendants of cut beads.  A very effective order of lace has small rhinestones worked into the pattern, together with gold floss.

The pretty little Normandie cap and peasants’ waist, shown at Figure No. 4, are appropriate for a young girl’s fancy costume.  The waist is made of pale-blue cashmere; is trimmed with bias bands of cardinal velvet: and opens over a chemisette of fine white organdie, gathered full at the throat.  There are organdie puffs on each shoulder, slashed with cardinal velvet.  The coquettish cap is made also of blue cashmere, worked in sprays of shaded brown and cardinal leaves.  There is a tinsel border.

Contrary to rule, the street dresses for children this winter are winning the approbation of the philosopher; who, with astonishing amiability, heralds the return of a fashion that puts children into clothes that are at once comfortable and healthy.  True it is, the newest costumes for children are very happy combinations of the picturesque and the practical.  The Gretchen and the various Greenaway cuts are the styles most in favor.

To the left in the illustration given at Figure No. 5, is shown the Nitouche mantle; a very graceful street-wrap.  The deep front panels are formed of a jetted fabric very closely woven.  The remainder of…(continued in the next post)

"Greenaway cuts" refers to styles inspired by the children’s book illustrations of Kate Greenaway, whose storybook kids wore clothing inspired by the 1790’s and 1800’s.  Parents were drawn to these nostalgic images of a supposedly more innocent time, and dressed their kids in imitation with mob caps, high waisted pinafores and straw bonnets for girls and skeleton suits and smock-frocks for boys.  Being the arts and crafts-inspired company that it was at the time, Liberty of London’s line of children’s clothing featured "Greenaway cuts".

I’m not sure what “the Gretchen” refers to.

Fancy dress for kids, 1873, source not given
(Left to right) Page, ancient German baroness, Italian girl, cavalier, clown, waiting-maid, lady of the Renaissance, peanist (sic) girl
"Mommy, I want to be an ancient German baroness for Lillie’s birthday party!"

Fancy dress for kids, 1873, source not given

(Left to right) Page, ancient German baroness, Italian girl, cavalier, clown, waiting-maid, lady of the Renaissance, peanist (sic) girl

"Mommy, I want to be an ancient German baroness for Lillie’s birthday party!"

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